It was third year engineering and pretty much the entire class was getting ready for GREs. GRE and TOEFL were the buzz words. Our class topper Sridhar and his sidekick VRS always hung out in the library and everything was very secretive, books they read, classes they took and universities they applied. One day as I was returning a book on Thermodynamics, I saw Sridhar and VRS hastily check out a book and run out. My curiosity got the better of me and I asked the librarian what the book was- and the response was “Fluid Mechanics, by Frank White.”.
I asked the librarian if there was another copy, but of course, there was none. The other buzz words that floated around the college were BCL (British Council Library) and USEFI. Anyone who carried these acronyms with them were “IN”. Meaning, everyone would want to hang around you to get the “INFO”.
I decided to make the trip to Churchgate to BCL and then go to USEFI to attend an orientation.
In those days I had strict rules at home and I was only allowed to travel up to Andheri by local train. If I needed to travel beyond Andheri I was escorted by a family member. Mind you I was 20 years old, lived with parents and followed every law laid down in the house. (I so wish we had mobile phones at that time, maybe that would’ve relaxed the rules, or maybe if we had a GPS transponder that would’ve helped with the tracking!)
Even so the “Laxman Rekha” was Andheri Railway Station and extended up to the Bhavans College Campus.
(“Laxman Rekha” is a phrase used in Hindi which means- I draw the line here.)
Anyways, Dad arranged for a BCL card, and had the USEFI appointment setup and I was all set for my journey. Dad asked a cousin of mine visiting from Hyderabad to be my chaperone! It was Ramesh’s first time in Bombay and he was all excited.
I had a first class pass. First class was considered the privileged class only because we had working professionals, and college kids (who could afford it because of a student discount). You could travel in “first class” without the “macchiwalis”, “dabahwallas” or the daredevil who would swing the pole at the entrance to the compartment waving his neck scarf at the oncoming train’s passengers. Quite the thrill, I must say! The air in first class was a notch higher than the regular class, or that’s what the people travelling in it thought so.
In Bombay, let me explain the difference between travelling first and second class - Now, if someone with a second class ticket travelled in first and was found out, he would get the choicest silent treatment from the co-passengers, and he would never be able to live it down.
Unless it was the no-good bum who didn’t mind hopping onto the first class compartment and used foul language to get his way in spite of the silent treatment from his co-passengers. If a professional frowned at the entry of the bum into men’s first class, the bum will look straight at him and say something like, ”Ae Chikne, kaay re, idhar kayko dekhta hai?”
That was the cue to avoid all forms of interactions with the bum.
I asked Ramesh to buy a first class ticket, so he could travel in the men’s first class while I could use my existing first pass to travel to Churchgate. The ticket being too expensive he decided to travel “second” class and at the same time he was not comfortable with me travelling alone in “first” class. To avoid the “Rush Hour” we decided to take the Goregaon Local – this was a train that began boarding at Goregaon and then was an express to Churchgate with stops at Andheri, Bandra, Dadar, & Bombay Central before reaching Churchgate. Ramesh spent a few days in researching the train compartments and their locations on the platform.
Ah, but Ramesh didn’t want me to travel alone and he didn’t want to travel first class, so I decided to travel in second class with him. Based on Ramesh’s research, he advised to choose the 1st compartment right behind the motorman’s cabin. Now, this was the compartment which was the most “diverse” – it included women, men, “chakkas” (eunuchs), dabbawallas, chickoo vendors, “keli” (bananas) vendors, santra (orange) vendors and anyone who didn’t fit in the other cars!
Even before the train stopped at the platform, the milieu started…about 300 people raced to find seats in a 100-seater compartment. Ramesh was ready for this; he jumped into the slowing train and disappeared. I waited until the train stopped to see if he made it in alive. I saw a blue handkerchief waving frantically at me from one of the windows..That was Ramesh! This was my first time in second class, so mustering courage I got on and moved myself in the direction of the handkerchief. I saw Ramesh with 10 people sneering at him, because he had “caught” a seat for me with his umbrella and a plastic bag. I made my way to the “seat” and settled in. The seat plank in front of us, which is a comfortable 3 seater or a wedged 4-seater was crammed with 6 people.
When I travelled first class, the aromas that crossed my nose were smell of perfumes, nail polish, Ponds Lotion or Cuticura powder.
In this case, it was the stench of beedi, paan, PAAN PARAG Paan masala, dried fish and other breakfast odors,
At Bandra, as a stream of passengers boarded the train, I heard a commotion near the door. A young man with dark sun glasses, striped T-shirt, neck-scarf and jeans Mithun shtyle was having an argument with an elderly man who had worn a sparkling white kurta-pajama.
Young Man: “Ae, raaste mein kayko khade lai? Dikh ta nahi hai kya” (Why are you standing in the way cant you see)
Elderly Man: Hum Mudaliar hai, Aabi Aandhra se aayi. (I am Mudaliar, I just came from Andhra)
Young Man: (Probably he felt that the scarf around his neck and sun glasses gave him importance and a boost to his self-image)
Ae, Idli Sambar, Baju ko hat, mere ko idhar khada hone ko maangta hai. Chal chal bag nikal. (Move aside, I want to stand here, move your bag)
NOTE: Anyone with a distinct south Indian accent while talking in Hindi was considered a Madraasi in Bombay. Though there are 8 states in the Deccan Peninsula of Southern India, pretty much any south indian’s hindi accent is a dead give away! You could be a politician, minister, a sportsman, film star, professional or a regular Joe, all that anyone ever knew about you was Idli Sambar!
Mudaliar: Humara baig bada hain…(My bag is big)
Young Man: Abe Takle, To pair pe rakh na, (O bald one, Keep it on your feet)
[Now remember, real estate on Bombay trains comes at a premium. If you have a seat to sit, consider yourself privileged, if you have a place to stand comfortably with both your feet on the train and hold a bag, consider yourself blessed, if you have enough place to stand even if it is on one foot, and still breathe, consider yourself lucky]
Mudaliar (confused): Pair pe kaise, ..? (On feet, how?)
Young Man: Oe Chamkeele, to sar pe rakhke khada re. (O Shining headed one, then keep the bag on your head.)
(Looks at others ..)Kya aadmi hai yaar.. (What a guy.)
(Looks at confused Mudaliar) Idhar aadmi ko khada hone ko jagah nahin hai aur usko Baig rakhne ka hain. Baig uthake bahar faink ne ko mangta hai. Abe tere ko bag bhi rakh ke khada hone ko hai to Mercediz mein ja na.
(Here people don’t have place to stand and he wants to keep his bag. If you want to stand and hold your bag then go in a Mercedes.)
At Dadar, we had a few dabbawallas board the train.
Now remember, four thousand five hundred semi-literate dabbawalas collect and deliver 175,000 packages within hours and they achieve virtual six-sigma quality with zero documentation. In the dabbawalas' elegant logistics system, using 25 kms of public transport, 10 km of footwork and involving multiple transfer points, mistakes rarely happen. According to a Forbes 1998 article, one mistake for every eight million deliveries is the norm.
The dabbawalas settled themselves near the door and began singing Vittal Bhajans. I guess that was their entertainment for all the work they do!
On top of the Bhajan singing, we heard “Nagpuri santre, theen rupyache dus”. (Oranges from Nagpur, 10 for 3 rupees)
A lady boarded the train with a huge basket of oranges on her head. “Chala, Chala, santre ghya” (Buy my oranges)..
As the train left Dadar station, (I guess Mudaliar was too distracted with all the singing)
Mudaliar: Dadar aaya kya? (Did Dadar station come yet?)
Young Man: Abe ganje, Dadar to kabka nikal gaya, abhi tu Bombay Central mein utarke vaapis train pakad. (O Bald Head, Dadar has gone, now you get off at Bombay Central and take the train back to Dadar)
As soon as Bombay Central station came, Mudaliar was held in position to get pushed out onto the platform. He did get pushed out but sans his shoes!
In a few minutes we reached Churchgate.
Emerging disheveled, Ramesh promised that no matter what the cost he will buy a first class ticket for the ride home.









